After a two-week trip to Pakistan, I returned to the kitchen last week and picked up Summers Under the Tamarind Tree by Sumayya Usmani.I made an exquisite custard pearl kheer interestingly, and returned to her chana dal recipe that I had made quite a long while back.I have mentioned Usmani’s work numerous times, and I will once more recommend her books, Summers Under the Tamarind Tree and Mountain Berries and Desert Spice, her most recent work.I really value Usmani’s dedication to Pakistani cuisine as a whole and her efforts to share regional recipes.She is also a creative chef, and it is a lot of fun to watch how she changes recipes by adding new flavors and ingredients to old dishes.
Recently, someone complained that when authors and chefs adapt recipes for a “Western audience,” why do they still refer to the original recipes as Pakistani?I didn’t like the argument for some reason.Even though I didn’t say anything at the time, now that I’ve had some time to think about it more, we need to start being less rigid about how we view Pakistani food and recipes that are “traditional” and “authentic” for it to evolve and reach its full potential on a global scale.A fixed, narrow view of Pakistani food frequently overlooks the diaspora and the effects of migration on food.
While Saxena’s piece is focused on the United States and goes into detail about how mainstream Americans interact with South Asian cuisine, I think it’s time to expand our understanding of what constitutes “authentic” and “correct.”There are always a dozen ways to prepare even something as basic as masoor ki dal, as someone who has been blogging and writing about Pakistani food for more than four years and started by crowdsourcing recipes of traditional dishes from friends and family.Every person and family has their own version of a recipe, especially those who live abroad.Indian-ish, Priya Krishna’s viral cookbook, and Soleil Ho’s excellent essay on assimilation food both discuss how their families had to adapt based on what was simple and readily available.Even though they may not be traditional, I would argue that this does not render those dishes any less Pakistani, Indian, Vietnamese, or other.rather, it simply deepens our comprehension of these cuisines as well as American, British, Canadian, and so forth.What is?
I love how she adds her own personal touches to traditional recipes based on her training as a chef or her new home in Scotland.For instance, a hibiscus and Himalayan pink salt raita or stuffed sweet potato parathas.Because Usmani is Pakistani and has spent years trying out Pakistani recipes, her recipes are not considered “Pakistani cuisine” because they don’t fit the narrow definition of what we ate as children.
It’s great to modify recipes based on what’s readily available, what’s simpler, and honestly, what works for you.It’s a clever way to keep traditional dishes current and interesting in the kitchen.In light of this, here is how I see Usmani’s chana dal.Because the flavor is very similar to the urad dal I grew up eating in my home in Islamabad, I really enjoyed eating and making this dal.It is very different from the earlier-mentioned masoor ki dal, kaali dal, or masoor mong dal because it is dry and is served with naan or chapati rather than rice.
The addition of tamarind paste, a generous amount of cilantro, and julienned ginger, which impart a sharp, crisp flavor to the dish, make this recipe particularly enjoyable.To further refine the flavor profile to my liking, I altered the spices and cooking method.I hope you will try the recipe and then experiment with your own variations in the spirit of creativity and rejecting outdated notions of what constitutes authentic Pakistani food.
Chana Dal Recipe A quick and easy 30-minute recipe for a spicy split yellow gram dal that uses a rich spice blend and tamarind sauce to give it a sharp flavor.
INGREDIENTS 1 1/2 cups split yellow gram chana dal 3 cups water 1 1/2 teaspoon crushed garlic 1 1/2 teaspoon crushed garlic 2 tablespoon tamarind paste (home-made or store-bought, see notes) 1 teaspoon cumin powder 2 teaspoon coriander powder 1 teaspoon turmeric powder 1 teaspoon red chili powder or to taste 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 12 yellow onion sliced in half rings 14 cup oil canola/sunflower/vegetable 4-6 dried red chilie
In a saucepan the size of a medium, combine the dal and water.Make it boil.
Add tamarind paste, ground spices, salt, and crushed ginger and garlic.The dal should simmer covered for 20 to 25 minutes at a lower heat.The water should boil out and the dal should soften.Take off the heat.
While the water is bubbling, broil cut onion in ¼ cup oil for around 10 – 12 minutes until it’s a profound even brown.On a paper towel, drain.
Heat 2 tablespoons of oil and fry four to six dried red chilies for a few seconds after the dal is done.
Top the dal in a serving dish with oil (tadka), fried chilies, caramelized onions, freshly cut ginger, and cilantro.Serve with naan or roti or chapati.
NOTES: I used tamarind paste from the store for this recipe.To make it at home, soak tamarind pulp the size of a walnut in warm water.Deseed the tamarind pulp with your fingers or a spoon, then press it to get the juice out.Strain it, then add the tamarind water and the other ingredients to the saucepan.
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